Why Preparation Is Everything
Walk into any professional decorator's job and you'll notice they spend far more time preparing the surface than actually painting it. Rushed preparation — skipping the fill, skimping on the prime — is the single biggest cause of a disappointing finish. Get this stage right and the rest almost takes care of itself.
What You'll Need
- Filler and filling knife (for holes and cracks)
- Medium and fine grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge
- Painter's tape (low-tack)
- Dust sheets or drop cloths
- Primer (for new plaster or stained walls)
- Quality paint roller (9–12 inch) and roller tray
- Angled brush (2–2.5 inch) for cutting in
- Ladder or stepladder
Step 1: Prepare the Room
Move furniture to the centre of the room and cover it with dust sheets. Remove outlet covers, switch plates, and any wall fixtures you can safely take down. Lay dust sheets on the floor and tape them down near the skirting boards to prevent paint splatter.
Step 2: Repair the Wall Surface
Inspect every wall carefully. Fill any holes, dents, or cracks with a suitable filler. For small holes, a lightweight filler applied with your finger works fine. For larger areas, use a proper filling knife and allow the filler to dry completely — this usually takes one to three hours depending on depth. Once dry, sand the filled areas flush with the surrounding wall using fine sandpaper. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth.
Step 3: Apply Tape and Prime
Run painter's tape along the top edge of skirting boards, around window and door frames, and along ceiling edges if you're painting only the walls. Press the tape down firmly to prevent paint bleeding underneath.
If the wall is freshly plastered, bare plaster must be primed before painting — applying emulsion directly to raw plaster leads to uneven absorption and a patchy finish. Use a dedicated plaster primer or a heavily diluted (10:1) coat of your topcoat paint as a mist coat.
Step 4: Cut In First
Use your angled brush to "cut in" along all edges — ceiling line, corners, skirting boards, and around any fixtures. Work in sections of about 30–40 cm at a time. This creates a neat painted border that your roller can't reach. Cutting in before rolling means the roller can blend into the wet edge, reducing visible brush marks.
Step 5: Roll the Main Walls
Load your roller evenly — don't overload it or you'll get drips. Work in a large W or M pattern on the wall, then fill in the gaps without lifting the roller. This distributes paint evenly and prevents lines. Work from the top of the wall down, and always maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks where sections dry before you rejoin them.
Choosing the Right Paint Finish
| Finish | Sheen Level | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Matt / Flat | None | Living rooms, bedrooms — hides imperfections well |
| Eggshell | Low | Hallways, kitchens — slightly more durable |
| Satin | Medium | Bathrooms, children's rooms — easy to wipe clean |
| Semi-gloss | High | Trim, skirting boards, doors |
| Gloss | Very High | Woodwork, feature elements |
How Many Coats Do You Need?
Most quality wall paints require two coats for full coverage. Always allow the first coat to dry fully before applying the second — check the manufacturer's recoat time, typically two to four hours for water-based emulsions. Applying a second coat too soon traps moisture and can cause the paint to peel.
Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping primer: On bare or stained walls, primer is essential — not optional.
- Using cheap brushes and rollers: Poor tools leave fibres in the paint and an uneven finish. Invest in decent quality.
- Painting in poor light: Always paint in good natural or artificial light so you can spot missed patches immediately.
- Not stirring the paint: Paint settles during storage — always stir thoroughly before and during use.
- Rushing the dry time: Patience between coats is the easiest way to get a professional result.
With the right preparation and a methodical approach, painting your own walls is one of the most rewarding and cost-effective home improvements you can make.